Tips and Tricks

• Always practise on a lower-value card from the same set first. Cards from the same set are made of the same material, so they'll teach you exactly how your valuable cards will respond.
• Less is more — a small amount of product goes a long way. You can always add more, but you can't undo overdoing it.
• Take your time. Card restoration rewards patience, not pressure. Some cards need multiple sessions.
• Set up your workspace properly. Place your card on the included foam mat to protect both the card and your work surface. Good lighting helps you see scratches and residue clearly.
• The more cards you work on, the better you'll get. Start with cleaning to get comfortable, then move on to the scratch cream once you're confident.

• Never spray directly onto the card. Spray onto a microfibre pad or into the bottle cap and dip a foam swab into the liquid.
• Always clean the card before using the scratch cream. This removes loose dirt that could cause additional scratching during polishing.
• Use gentle strokes in one direction. Don't scrub or rub back and forth — you'll damage the surface.
• Avoid the card edges and corners when wiping. These are more fragile and more prone to liquid damage.
• The spray is safe for holo, reverse holo, and standard finish card surfaces.
• Great for removing fingerprints, surface grime, sticky residue, and general dirt that builds up over time.

• For holo and shiny coated surfaces only. Do not use on standard non-holo card faces or uncoated cardboard.
• Do not use on card backs. Most card backs are uncoated paper.
• Do not use on autographs or serial numbers. The micro-abrasive will damage or remove them.
• Apply a pea-sized amount onto a foam swab — gently, like spreading butter on bread. Don't dig into the card.
• Use light circular motions for 15–30 seconds at a time. Do not press hard or dig in.
• Buff with a clean microfibre pad using gentle circular motions to remove all residue.
• Use the included magnifier to inspect the surface after buffing. Make sure all residue is completely removed.

Check for top-layer embellishments before polishing

Some newer cards have glitter, texture, or sparkle effects that sit on top of the card surface rather than underneath the clear coat. If the texture feels raised or looks like it's been applied over the top, do not use the cream on those areas. The cream can remove these surface-level embellishments permanently. Rule of thumb — if the texture isn't under the plastic layer, keep the cream away.

Some specific examples to watch for: newer Pokémon sets with powder/stary holo coatings (some Scarlet & Violet era cards, 151 Reverse Master Ball Holo variants, certain Japanese promos). The cleaning spray is safe on these cards, but the cream is not.

Don't overdo it

One or two light coats is all you need. The goal is to restore the card's appearance, not make it look unnaturally polished. This is especially important if you plan to submit for grading.

If cream dries on the card

Don't try to scratch it off. Simply apply a small fresh amount on top and it will lift the dried residue away cleanly.

Let the card dry before sleeving

After polishing, always let the card air dry completely before putting it into a sleeve, top loader, or any enclosure. If you sleeve a card while it's still damp, the moisture gets trapped and causes the sleeve to wrinkle. This can also cause problems if you're submitting for grading — wrinkled sleeves can look suspicious to graders. Allow to air dry completely.

• Always place the card into a penny sleeve first. Then place an additional penny sleeve over the edge or corner you're treating. Never use the tool directly on the card surface.
• Use very light pressure. This is about patience and repetition, not force.
• Hold the tool parallel to the card and work surface. Gently roll the tubing across the area.
• Pressing too hard can remove paint or indent the card. If you're not sure, use less pressure.
• Works well for scuffed, rough, or whitened edges. Won't fix missing paint or deep chips.

How to use it

1. Place the card you want to check into a top loader first.

2. Place the card under the centering tool and line it up as closely as you can under the clear window.

3. Read the line numbers on either side of the card that line up with the edge of the printed image area. Dashed lines are even numbers, solid lines are odd numbers. Estimate as closely as possible if the edge falls between lines.

4. Match the numbers on each side to the grading table below to get your centering score.

5. Based on your score, decide whether the card is worth submitting to a grading company (PSA, BGS, SGC).

Your overall centering score is only as good as your most off-centred measurement — so always refer to your worst side.

Example

If the left and right image borders line up most closely with lines 3 and 3, your centering is 50/50 — perfect. If your numbers are 3 and 2, your centering would be 60/40.

Centering requirements by grade

• GEM-MT 10: 55/45 to 60/40 on the front, 75/25 on the reverse
• MINT 9: 60/40 to 65/35 on the front, 90/10 on the reverse
• NM-MT 8: 65/35 to 70/30 on the front, 90/10 on the reverse
• NM 7: 70/30 to 75/25 on the front, 90/10 on the reverse
• EX-MT 6: 80/20 or better on the front, 90/10 on the reverse
• EX 5: 85/15 or better on the front, 90/10 on the reverse
• VG-EX 4: 85/15 or better on the front, 90/10 on the reverse

Check your centering before paying for a grading submission — off-centre prints can significantly affect your grade, and it's one of the easiest things to check at home.

Fixable with our kits

Surface scratches and haze on holos, fingerprints, grime and dirt, dull holo finishes, light edge scuffing and whitening.

Typically permanent

Deep creases, missing paint on edges or corners, permanent marker, deep gouges through the holo layer, ballpoint pen ink.

• Many collectors clean their cards before submitting for grading. Grading companies don't officially endorse card cleaning, but submitting a clean, well-presented card gives you the best chance of a fair assessment.
• Always ensure all product residue is fully removed and the card is completely dry before submission.
• Check your centering before submitting — off-centre cards can lose significant marks.
• Don't over-polish. One or two light applications is enough.